how to hatch a chicken egg in minecraft

Egg farming is the process of collecting a large number of chicken eggs from chickens. From an automated source of eggs, a chicken farm which produces additional end products like raw/cooked chicken and feather can be constructed with the addition of egg-dispensing and chicken-killing systems.

The chicken is the most farmable animal in wtbblue.com. Unlike cows and sheep, it does not require any food to grow up or to reproduce. No matter where the chicken is kept, everything just happens automatically. In addition, cooked chicken is almost as good as other cooked meats for restoring hunger.

Đang xem: How to hatch a chicken egg in minecraft

Contents

1 Catching or hatching a chicken 2 Setting up the farm 2.1 3x3x4 Automatic Farm 2.2 Building up 2.3 11x11x6 Automatic farm 2.3.1 Materials 2.3.2 Building it 2.3.3 Running the farm 2.4 Joghurts Design 2.5 Trench Farm 2.6 Water Egg farms 2.7 Realistic Chicken Coop 2.8 Design 8 3 Chicken farming and cooking 3.1 Extending the 3×3×4 farm 3.2 Filtering out immature chicks 3.3 Full automation 3.3.1 Example farms 4 Trivia

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Catching or hatching a chicken < edit>

In general, you”ll want to first build a pen to hold them. Single-height wooden fences (or a small cave) will suffice, but either way it”s best to add an “entry lock”: a fenced space with gates leading both to the pen and to outside. This will help prevent escapees – if one of the gates is always closed, the chickens” pathfinding will never see an escape route to the outside.

The usual way to capture chickens is to hold seeds of any kind, which will make any chickens nearby follow you across the landscape and right into the pen. Alternatively, if you already have slimeballs and string, you can use leads to drag them along; this will mostly keep them from wandering away. You will need a separate lead for each chicken. With care, chickens can even be led across water, as they will follow your boat.

Another option is to collect eggs and throw the eggs into your closed pen. There is only a 1 in 8 chance of spawning a chicken when you throw an Egg, so you should try to collect at least one stack. They will take some time to grow to adulthood but once you have at least one adult chicken it will start producing eggs and with two or more adults you can breed them with any seeds.

When hatching large numbers of chickens, a good rule of thumb is that including growth time, the chickens will need over a real-time hour to replace the eggs used to hatch them. Nights skipped in a bed do not count toward this time, and the chunk(s) containing the chicken must remain loaded (that is, near a player or in the spawn chunks). This also assumes you are collecting all the eggs — remember, loose items like eggs despawn after 5 minutes.

Setting up the farm < edit>

You can farm chicken eggs the traditional way, where you have to run around and collect chicken eggs all the time.

Alternatively, you can follow one of the tutorials below, to create a farm that channels eggs to a single point. Most such will do the same for chicken meat, feathers, and even experience orbs as well.

3x3x4 Automatic Farm < edit>

This is a minimal egg farm consisting of 8 blocks, a hopper and chest: it”s incredibly efficient in versions prior to 1.11, when it could house hundreds of chickens in an 1×1 area. Since version Java Edition 1.11″s introduction of the maxEntityCramming gamerule, the number has reduced to 24. Check your servers settings on cramming before settling on this farm solution (this is not a problem on bedrock edition). Alternatively, you can place a single vines block in the space that the chickens occupy, and they will not suffer from entity cramming damage.

The opening at the top can either be used as a one-way entrance or simply sealed. Bait a chicken in or throw some eggs at the interior walls to start the system.

Building up < edit>

This system may be extended with a larger living area with all hoppers eventually pointing to one that goes to a chest. At a certain point, the system becomes prone to mob spawns, and slabs can be laid over hoppers to deter mobs spawning. (Hoppers can fetch dropped eggs through a slab.) As using many hoppers becomes too expensive, water flow is used instead of the initial collection in the following version.

11x11x6 Automatic farm < edit>

The hopper egg farm is a relatively simple contraption, which does not require access to nether quartz: On the main floor, chickens are contained by water while they grow and lay eggs, which also wash the eggs into a hopper; from there the eggs go back into the system”s supply chest. This chest feeds an automatic hatcher, which can refill the main floor after a harvest. The hatcher is controlled through a despawn timer, which prevents the system from spawning chickens ad infinitum (or at least until the server crashes).

This farm will be surrounded on the surface by an 11×11 fence or wall, with doors or gates at or near the middle of a side. There is a pillar and (at least a) partial roof in the center, and an “egg room” dug 3 blocks deep beneath that. The egg room and its pillar can be adapted to other farm layouts. You will also want a tunnel leading to the egg room, with space to get at the chest and other devices to retrieve meat and feathers), and the switches to trigger or disable the hatcher. The chickens are contained primarily by water, so the farm partly resists any problems with chickens walking through walls and fences. The schematics are below. The gold and stone-brick blocks represent “any full block”, but the blocks shown as gold must also be opaque, while stone-brick blocks can be opaque, transparent, or in some cases air.

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Materials < edit> The base machinery includes three droppers, a dispenser, three hoppers, a chest, a couple of switches, two redstone repeaters, two redstone torches, and six redstone dust. Making that equipment from scratch will cost a minimum of 6 smooth stone, 15 iron, 29 cobblestone, 10 “logs” of wood (with some bits left over), 18 redstone dust, and 3 string. Also needed are 7 solid opaque blocks, and several that can be opaque or transparent. The chest can optionally be doubled (another 2 wood), and you may well want another chest elsewhere in the egg room, for ordinary storage. The 9×9 floor inside the room will need 78 additional blocks or slabs (if the optional second chest is used, then at least the space above it needs to be a slab). You may want a trapdoor from the chicken floor to the egg room; the water not only won”t flow through the trapdoor, but will generally prevent chickens from slipping down there too. The pillar will be a slab and another two blocks, one of which should be a jack-o-lantern or other light source. Even a block with four torches will do, but you do need a light there to keep the chicks from drowning themselves at the edges. The roof will need at least 10 solid blocks to intercept eggs (3×3 over the dispenser, and one topping the pillar). The rest of the ceiling can be filled in with slabs. The walls should be solid blocks, at least 2 high (the ceiling layer will usually be a third) This will cost most of 80 blocks of stone and/or glass (or 20 wood “logs” converted to planks). Doors can be best placed in the middle of any wall, or all four of them. Given creepers, it”s much safer to make at least the floor and the bottom row of the wall out of blast resistant blocks: Any stone will do, as will brick or hardened clay, or even obsidian. This will minimize the mess if it does get blasted, and make it much easier to fix up. Making the top row out of glass blocks lets you see in and out of the farm, which helps avoid creeper blasts in the first place. You can also surround it with other protections such as a moat, which would prevent creepers from damaging the blocks even if they do explode. Building it < edit>

Once the walls are set up, it is easiest to build the egg room from above. Make sure to offset the room so the input hopper is in the center of the floor, and light the egg room properly. When orienting the room, think about where you want the access tunnel to go. As shown, an access corridor leading to the lower left of the diagram allows getting at all the containers and both switches.

The hatcher consists of two droppers facing up, with a dispenser facing up on top of them. These are fed by the hoppers, with the chest providing extra storage, and driven by a 3-clock. The clock is on the right edge of the diagram, from the block with the lever southwards and downwards. That lever lets you disable the hatcher completely—place it and turn it on as soon as the clock is built, so you can build the rest without clicking noises.

The despawn timer (upper edge of diagram) is a dropper facing down over pressure plate. It works by dropping an item onto the pressure plate, which will turn off the torch and enable the clock until the item despawns. The block in front of the pressure plate helps avoid accidentally picking up the item as you pass near, but if you go close enough you can still pick it up and cut off the timer. Once you”ve built and connected the despawn timer, you can turn the lever back off, as the inactive timer will keep the clock disabled. The despawn timer”s dropper can be loaded with any disposable item, such as surplus seeds or eggs. The block in front of the pressure plate is just to make it a little harder to accidentally pick up the item—glass will let you see if the item is on target, or has missed the pressure plate.

Once the egg room is built and closed over, continue with the central pillar: Above the hopper, place a top slab, then two blocks above that. You can make the lower one a jack-o-lantern, for simple lighting. From the top block of the pillar, extend a roof out over the dispenser and at least one square around it in every direction. Put a torch on the roof to avoid unfortunate monster spawns. Note that if you use slabs, you may get chicks on top of the roof. If you have the minimum roof, they”ll just fall into the water, but if you want to extend the roof to the edges, use non-transparent blocks to avoid escapees.

Note that the dispenser is purposely separated from the collection hopper/central pillar, to allow for the dispenser”s variable aim. The slab (or other transparent block) between them is only needed if you add the optional chest, but if you do, an opaque block there will prevent the chest from being opened. Note that as of version 1.14, you can place the optional chest without connecting it to the main chest. It will still feed into the egger, but may be useful for stashing extra eggs, especially when you are about to harvest and want space in the main chest for feathers and meat.

Last of all, place buckets of water in each corner; they will flow to the central pillar. Load up your chest with eggs and/or lead in some chickens, and just hit the button. Then let the eggs accumulate until you have enough for a full run (at least a dozen stacks in the chest). (If you are starting with just a few chickens and/or eggs, an early run with just a few stacks can get you a few more chickens to fill the system more quickly.) If you have many eggs, you might want to do a longer run by disabling the despawn timer (add a lever to the block for its output torch), or just do a second run immediately when the first finishes.

Running the farm < edit>

The clock is normally disabled by either the inactive timer, or by the lever, either of which will disable the clock. With the clock disabled, the incoming eggs will fill first the bottom dropper, then the bottom hoppers, then the chest, and finally the intake hopper. This gives a total of 52 stacks storage, or 79 with the optional second chest.

Now, 79 stacks of eggs would produce an average of 163 chickens, which may be enough to seriously lag the game when you are nearby. Worse, they will take over 15 minutes to feed through, because the hoppers are slower than the clock. If you leave the hatcher running much longer than that, the first chickens will grow up and start laying eggs! At that point, you”ll be facing exponential growth, limited only by the speed of the hoppers. If the hatcher is left running after the first generation grows up, the system will be producing 2.6 chickens a minute at first, but if the game doesn”t crash, it will eventually peak at 18 per minute, 363 per game day. In such numbers, the chickens will overflow any enclosure, and the huge numbers will cause the game to lag badly. However, if you don”t mind risking “Chickmageddon”, you can skip the despawn timer forming the top two rows of the egg room. In more recent versions of wtbblue.com, the crowding will eventually cause chickens to start suffocating, but for this design that may not be enough to prevent problems.

This despawn timer and inverter will enable the clock for 5 minutes only, letting you hatch 500 eggs at a time (about 31 stacks, producing an average of 64 chickens). There is a bit of a trick here: Since the clock has a period of 0.6 seconds, 300 seconds gets you 500 cycles, but the clock and dispenser are faster than the hoppers feeding the dispenser. The hoppers alone could deliver less than 375 eggs to the dispenser, but the eggs in the bottom dropper give just enough of a head start to cover a batch of 500. As noted above, the chickens will need a bit over a real-time hour to replenish the eggs used; if you don”t want to wait for that, you can harvest the chickens as soon as they”re mature, then run the egger again and let the second batch refill the chests while you do other things.

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